Installing a New Shower Unit
An effective shower installation requires cautious planning and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will need to do three kinds of jobs: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and completing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must pick the type of shower that you wish to install. It is very important to determine whether the picked shower can coping with certain systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower systems nowadays are created to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored warm water and cold mains).
It is also important to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and exceptionally easy to set up. Nevertheless, although the pipe connection is easy, it is quickly dislodged. In addition, it is troublesome to change the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very low-cost option and no additional pipes is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise experience inconvenient temperature control choices.
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower system belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water materials are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the formerly discussed mixers. They likewise need additional plumbing of cold and hot water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. Among the biggest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of hassle-free temperature control. Nevertheless, it is the most pricey of the various mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of an effective electric pump that can modifying both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water warmed directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is necessary to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted via a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the family. A significant downside of electric showers is that the control knob only enables the choice of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter when the spray is often weak and the mains water is cooler. Nevertheless, this issue is taken on in some models which are offered with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to set up, the shower head need to either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Before starting, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drain system to get rid of the drainage will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also require to be thought about if an instant or electric shower system is being installed.
Use the direction guide offered with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water supply. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they must be provided a water resistant covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have actually been made (there ought to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be raised to a greater height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood assistance beneath it-- potentially composed of struts and blockboards. If you select this alternative, the main and distribution pipelines will also have to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it must be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding maintain maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. Furthermore, by reducing the use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the https://www.fixitrightplumbing.com.au/plumber-northcote/ resistance in the flow of the water supply. You can attain this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or ignoring local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not using tape or pipeline substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall remains in place.
# Not effectively lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outdoors hose pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.